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Invasive Plant Species in Ontario: What to Avoid and What to Plant Instead

by A Touch of Dutch Landscaping | May 28, 2025 | Gardening, Maintenance, Native Plants, Perennials, Softscaping

Gardening season is officially here, and as Ontarians return to their yards and gardens, it’s important to know which plants help your landscape—and which ones hurt it. Invasive plant species may look harmless, even attractive, but they can wreak havoc on your garden, choke out native species, and spread uncontrollably into natural areas. Before you dig in, here’s what you need to know.

What Is an Invasive Plant Species?

An invasive plant species is a non-native plant that spreads rapidly and aggressively, often without natural predators or controls in its new environment. These plants outcompete native flora for sunlight, water, and nutrients, reducing biodiversity and altering natural ecosystems. In Ontario, invasive species are not just a backyard problem—they can threaten wetlands, forests, farmland, and even water quality.

How Are Invasive Plants Different from Perennials and Groundcovers?

Many gardeners value perennials and groundcovers for their reliability and ability to fill space. But not all fast-growing or spreading plants are invasive. The key differences are:

Perennials return year after year but typically stay within the area they’re planted, especially if they are native or well-adapted to local conditions.
Groundcovers are low-growing plants that help prevent erosion and suppress weeds. Many are non-invasive and can be controlled with regular maintenance.
Invasive plants, however, spread uncontrollably, often by underground rhizomes or prolific seed dispersal, and they escape garden boundaries into wild ecosystems.

The good news? For every invasive species, there are attractive, beneficial alternatives.

Top 10 Invasive Plant Species in Ontario—and What to Plant Instead

Here’s a list of some of the most problematic invasive plants in Ontario gardens, along with suggested alternatives that offer similar aesthetic value without the ecological risk.

Goutweed (Aegopodium podagraria) is a common groundcover that many gardeners plant for its ability to thrive in shade—but it comes at a cost. It spreads aggressively via underground runners and quickly smothers nearby plants, making it hard to control once established. A better choice for shady areas is Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense), a native plant that forms a lush carpet without overwhelming its neighbours.

Periwinkle (Vinca minor) may look charming with its glossy leaves and violet flowers, but it’s a serious threat to forest floors across Ontario. This plant escapes garden beds and forms dense mats that outcompete native species. It’s not harmful and can be contained using stone or other solid borders. Or you can try Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia), a native groundcover that’s just as pretty and much more eco-friendly.

Japanese Knotweed (Fallopia japonica) is one of the most notoriously invasive plants in Ontario. It spreads rapidly, damages building foundations, and clogs waterways. Its resilience and deep root system make it incredibly difficult to remove. A safer alternative is False Solomon’s Seal (Maianthemum racemosum), a native perennial with a similar upright growth habit and graceful appearance.

English Ivy (Hedera helix) might look elegant climbing up walls and trees, but it deprives native plants of light and can cause significant damage to structures and ecosystems. It’s not dangerous and is a lovely addition to containers and isolated flowerbeds, so you don’t have to disregard it entirely. Another option is Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), a native vine that offers fast coverage and brilliant red fall colour without harming trees or buildings.

Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) was once a popular urban tree, but it has proven to be invasive. It outcompetes native maples, casts deep shade that limits undergrowth, and alters soil chemistry, which affects nearby plant life. The ideal substitute is Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum), an iconic Canadian species known for its vibrant fall foliage and ecological benefits.

Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) is a biennial herb that quickly invades forest understories, displacing native wildflowers and disrupting mycorrhizal fungi that many plants rely on. For a pollinator-friendly and non-invasive alternative, plant Golden Alexander (Zizia aurea), a native species with bright yellow flowers that support beneficial insects.

Dog-strangling Vine (Vincetoxicum spp.) lives up to its ominous name. It twines itself around shrubs and trees, smothering them and preventing natural regeneration in forests and fields. A beautiful and safer alternative is Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana), a native vine with delicate white blooms that supports pollinators and wildlife.

Phragmites (European Common Reed) is a tall, dense grass that takes over wetlands, pushing out native plants like cattails and destroying critical wildlife habitats. In its place, consider Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor), a stunning native wetland plant that provides both beauty and biodiversity value.

Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) may be attractive with its tall spikes of purple flowers, but it’s devastating to wetland habitats. It displaces native species and reduces food sources and shelter for birds and amphibians. A better option is Blazing Star (Liatris spicata), a native perennial that’s just as showy and is beloved by pollinators.

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) spreads readily in disturbed soils and is toxic to livestock. Though it’s sometimes planted for its ferny foliage and yellow button-like flowers, it’s best avoided. Choose Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) instead—a native lookalike with similar textures and blooms that supports pollinators and is much safer.

Giant Hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) looks pretty when in bloom, but is a dangerous invasive species that poses a serious health risk. Its sap can cause severe skin irritation, burns, and even long-term scarring when exposed to sunlight. It also spreads aggressively in disturbed areas, quickly establishing large colonies. A safer, native alternative is Cow Parsnip (Heracleum maximum), which has a similar dramatic appearance but without the hazardous sap.

What You Can Do as a Gardener

Avoid planting invasive noxious species, and monitor for them in your gardens.
Contain species that spread aggressively by surrounding them with stone or another solid barrier.
Choose native or non-invasive plants suited to your site conditions.
Monitor your yard and naturalized areas for signs of invasive spread and act quickly to remove offenders.
Support biodiversity by planting a variety of species that feed pollinators and birds.

By choosing the right plants, you can have a beautiful garden that supports Ontario’s natural ecosystems. If you’re unsure whether a plant is invasive, check with your local conservation authority or use online resources like Ontario Invasive Plant Council’s Grow Me Instead guide.

Need help planning a garden that’s both stunning and sustainable? Our landscape designers can help you make smart plant choices and create a space that thrives for years to come.

Spring Landscaping Projects – A Comprehensive Guide

by A Touch of Dutch Landscaping | Mar 16, 2025 | Hardscaping, Landscape Design, Maintenance, Patios, Retaining Walls, Softscaping, Spring Clean-Up, Trees

By late winter, most of us are champing at the bit to say goodbye to snow and begin some spring landscaping projects. However, when you’re located in regions with colder climates, like Hardiness Zones 5 and 6, timing is key to ensure your landscaping projects are successful and won’t be ruined by lingering, sub-zero temperatures.

In these zones, getting a head start on your landscaping project can be a bit tricky. But the below guide can help you kick off your landscaping tasks at the right times (earlier than you might think) and make the most of the spring and summer months.

Understanding The Southwestern Ontario Hardiness Zones

Before diving into specifics, it’s important to define our hardiness zones (5 & 6). Hardiness zones are determined by the average minimum temperatures that a region experiences during the winter.

Zone 5 typically includes areas with average low temperatures ranging from –29°C to -23°C.
Zone 6 has slightly milder winters, with average low temperatures ranging from -23°C to -18°C.

These zones are significant because they dictate what types of plants and trees will thrive (i.e. survive winter) in our area, and they also impact the timing of landscaping projects. In both zones 5 and 6, the winter frost can last into late April (or even May!), so it’s crucial to be mindful of this when planning.

The Ideal Time to Start Spring Landscaping Projects in Southwestern Ontario

Though the ground may still be thawing in early spring, there are several tasks you can begin before the frost has fully left the ground.

Early Spring (Late March to Mid April): Planning, Preparation, and Soil Work

Early Spring Planting soil testing landscaping projects While it’s not yet time to plant anything delicate or frost-sensitive, early spring is the perfect time to begin planning your landscaping project and preparing your yard. Here are some activities you can start with:

Planning and Design: Take advantage of the cold weather to sketch your landscaping design. This is the time to think about your overall vision, the layout of flower beds, garden paths, patios, or water features. You can also research which plants are best suited for your zone. Drawing your plan on paper (or using a landscaping app) will help you visualize the changes and ensure your project flows smoothly once the weather warms up.
Clearing the Area: Once the snow has melted and the ground has thawed enough, it’s time to begin spring cleanup. This can involve removing dead plants, leaves, and debris from flower beds, lawn areas, and other sections of your landscape. It’s also an ideal time to prune any shrubs or trees before they start budding. Be sure to clean up garden beds, pathways, and any other areas that need tidying up.
Soil Testing and Preparation: Testing the pH and nutrient levels of your soil early in the season is an essential step in preparing for a successful landscaping project. You can get a soil test kit from your local garden center or university extension service. Based on the results, you can amend the soil with the necessary fertilizers, compost, or lime to improve soil health. Early spring gives you enough time to make adjustments before planting begins.
Hardscaping: If your landscaping project includes hardscaping features like building a patio, retaining walls, or installing pathways, you can begin these tasks even in early spring. While it might still be too early to lay sod or plant anything sensitive, hardscaping typically involves working with materials like stone, gravel, or concrete that can be installed even if the ground is still a little cold. Just ensure that all of the frost is out of the ground. If it’s not, your hardscaping elements will settle after the ground thaws and you’ll most likely need to relay the stone. You can also lay out the framework for fences or garden structures.

Late Spring (Late April to Mid May): Planting and Plant Care

mid to late spring planting hardy perennials landscaping projects As the soil warms up and the last frost date approaches (typically in late April for Zone 6 and mid May for Zone 5), you can start thinking about planting. However, it’s important to wait until the soil is no longer too cold for seeds or young plants to thrive.

Planting Hardy Perennials: In early spring, certain plants, particularly cold-tolerant perennials, can be planted in Zones 5 and 6. These include species like hostas, lavender, daylilies, and coneflowers. These hardy perennials can withstand some frost and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable and temperatures have warmed a bit.
Starting Annuals Indoors: Many gardeners in Zones 5-6 choose to start annuals indoors earlier in the year, generally around 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Flowers like marigolds, zinnias, and petunias, as well as vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and herbs, all thrive when started inside in early spring. By doing this, you’ll have strong, healthy plants ready to be hardened off and planted outdoors when the time is right.
Mulching and Weed Control: As the weather warms and plants begin to emerge from the soil, applying a layer of mulch around your garden beds can help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Keep an eye out for any invasive weeds that may start sprouting and remove them before they have a chance to spread.

Late Spring to Early Summer (Late May to June): Full Planting and Maintenance

late spring to early summer planting spring landscaping projects trees and shrubs Once the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures are consistently above 50°F, you can move forward with your full landscaping project. This is when most of the planting will take place. This period offers a long window for planting flowers, shrubs, trees, and vegetables. Here’s what you can do:

Planting Warm-Weather Crops and Annuals: After the last frost date (typically mid-May for Zone 5 and late May to early June for Zone 6), you can begin planting annuals and vegetable garden crops that need warm soil to thrive.
Adding Trees and Shrubs: Late spring is an excellent time to plant trees and shrubs, as the weather is warming and the soil is beginning to support healthy root development. When selecting trees or shrubs, make sure to choose species that are hardy in your specific zone. This will ensure that they can withstand the climate and provide long-term beauty.
Ongoing Maintenance: As your plants start to grow, make sure to monitor their progress. Water regularly, especially during hot spells, and watch for any signs of pests or diseases. Keeping your yard free of debris, properly mulching garden beds, and maintaining your hardscaping features will ensure your landscaping project looks great throughout the season.

In Hardiness Zones 5 and 6, it’s crucial to know the optimal time for each phase of your landscaping project to get the best results. While you may have to wait for the last frost date and ensure the soil is warm enough, there are plenty of activities you can start in early spring, including planning, clearing, hardscaping, and soil preparation.

By taking advantage of the early part of the year for these preparatory tasks, you’ll be ready to plant and grow a beautiful landscape once the warmer weather arrives. Remember to tailor your landscaping plans to your specific zone’s growing season and weather patterns, and don’t forget the importance of patience—good things take time, and a little advance preparation will pay off in the end.

If you’re not a green thumb, or just want to ensure that everything is done right and at the right time, contact us and share your landscaping goals.

Should I Remove Snow from Trees and Shrubs?

by A Touch of Dutch Landscaping | Jan 27, 2025 | Gardening, Maintenance, Shrubs, Softscaping, Trees

Winter can be tough on trees and shrubs, especially when heavy snow and ice accumulate. While snow can provide some insulation against freezing temperatures, too much weight can lead to broken branches, bent shrubs, and even long-term damage to your landscape. Knowing when to remove snow from trees and shrubs, how to protect your plants, and how to assess winter damage can help you keep your trees and shrubs healthy all season long.

Proactive Ways to Protect Trees and Shrubs from Winter Damage

Choose the Right Plants

Planting trees and shrubs suited to your climate is the first step to reducing winter damage. Native species or those hardy to your zone are better equipped to handle the weight of snow and ice.

Use Burlap or Protective Wraps

For smaller trees and delicate shrubs, wrapping them in burlap or protective fabric can shield branches from snow, wind, and ice buildup. This is especially useful for evergreens, which hold onto snow more than deciduous trees.

Install Supports for Vulnerable Branches

Multi-stemmed shrubs, like arborvitae or junipers, often splay open under heavy snow. Use stakes or twine to gently tie stems together before the first snowstorm to help them withstand the extra weight.

Avoid Salt Damage

Salt used to melt ice on driveways and sidewalks can damage nearby trees and shrubs. Use sand or calcium chloride instead, and keep de-icing chemicals away from your landscape.

Mulch Around the Base

Apply a layer of mulch (about 2-4 inches thick) around the base of trees and shrubs to help insulate roots and retain moisture during winter freezes and thaws.

When (and How) to Remove Snow or Ice

heavy snow on evergreens protect shrubs from snow damage Not all snow or ice needs to be removed. In some cases, it’s better to leave it alone to avoid causing more harm than good.

When to Remove Snow

If branches are bending dangerously under the weight of snow, it’s time to remove snow from trees and shrubs.
When snow accumulation is particularly heavy and is causing obvious strain on shrubs or trees.
For smaller shrubs that may be completely buried under a heavy snowfall.

How to Safely Remove Snow:

Use a broom or soft brush to GENTLY sweep snow off branches. Start from the bottom and work your way up to avoid adding extra weight to lower limbs.
Avoid using shovels or sharp tools that can damage bark and branches.
Never shake snow-covered branches, as this can cause them to snap, especially when frozen.

When NOT to Remove Snow

If the snow is light and fluffy, it generally won’t cause harm and can be left alone.
If branches are encased in ice, do not attempt to break or remove it. The ice protects the tree temporarily, and attempting to remove it could result in snapped branches or stripped bark.

How to Check for Damage After a Storm

Once the snow and ice have melted or settled, inspect your trees and shrubs for signs of damage:

Look for Broken Branches

Check for cracked, split, or broken limbs that may need pruning.

Examine the Shape of Shrubs

Some shrubs may remain misshapen after being weighed down by snow. Give them time to bounce back before making adjustments.

Inspect Trunk and Bark Damage

Deep cracks or peeling bark may signal significant stress.

Pruning Tip

Remove broken or damaged branches promptly with clean, sharp pruning tools. Make cuts just outside the branch collar to help the plant heal properly.

When It Might Be Necessary to Replace a Tree or Shrub

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a tree or shrub may suffer irreparable damage. Here are signs it may be time to replace it:

Severe Structural Damage

If more than 50% of a tree’s branches are broken or the trunk is split, the tree may not recover.

Permanent Leaning

If a tree or shrub has been pushed significantly out of position, its root system may be compromised.

Continued Poor Health

If a tree or shrub fails to leaf out in spring or shows signs of decline like dieback or stunted growth, it may not recover.

When replacing a damaged tree or shrub, consider selecting a hardier variety better suited to your winter conditions.

Protecting trees and shrubs during winter starts with preparation, but knowing when and how to remove snow can make all the difference. By being proactive and carefully assessing any damage, you can help your landscape survive the season and thrive come spring. If you’re ever unsure whether a tree or shrub is salvageable, consider consulting an arborist or landscaping professional for advice.

With the right care, your winter landscape can remain healthy, beautiful, and resilient year after year!

Fall Cleanup – Wrapping Trees

by A Touch of Dutch Landscaping | Oct 22, 2024 | Fall Cleanup, Fall Lawn & Garden Cleanup Series, Maintenance, Shrubs, Trees

Fall Lawn Cleanup

by A Touch of Dutch Landscaping | Oct 22, 2024 | Fall Cleanup, Fall Lawn & Garden Cleanup Series, Lawn care, Maintenance

Fall Lawn Care Tips: Leaf Cleanup and Proper Mowing Height

As autumn settles in and the leaves begin to fall, your lawn needs a little extra attention to stay healthy through winter and into next spring. While it can be tempting to let fallen leaves pile up or skip the last mow of the season, proper fall lawn care plays a big role in keeping your grass lush and vibrant year after year.

Here’s what to keep in mind when managing leaves and mowing your lawn this fall.

Should You Mulch or Rake Leaves?

When leaves are dry and crisp—as they often are in early to mid-October—mulching can be an excellent option. Running a mulching mower over a light layer of leaves helps return valuable organic matter to the soil. Just be sure to mulch regularly rather than waiting until all the leaves have fallen. Trying to mulch a thick, wet layer of leaves later in the season can clog your mower and smother your grass.

If the leaves become soggy after rain or you’ve fallen behind on cleanup, it’s best to rake or use a bagging mower to remove them. Collected leaves can be added to your compost pile and, once broken down, used to enrich your flower beds the following year. This simple cycle helps you create natural fertilizer while keeping your property looking tidy.

When and Why Leaf Cleanup Matters

Beyond appearances, removing leaves is important for your lawn’s health. Wet, matted leaves can block sunlight and airflow, encouraging mold and fungus to develop. In particular, if you notice black spots on your leaves—a common sign of fungal infection—it’s best not to compost them. These infected leaves can reintroduce disease to your trees and shrubs next year. Instead, bag them and take them to your local yard waste depot or landfill.

Even if you miss your window before the first snowfall, it’s still worth cleaning up leaves once the snow melts again. A quick mid-winter cleanup helps prevent mold and keeps your grass from suffocating under layers of decaying leaves.

How Short to Cut Your Lawn in the Fall

Most lawns in Ontario can be cut until late October, depending on weather conditions. Throughout the growing season, aim to maintain a mowing height of about 3 to 3½ inches. For the final one or two cuts of the year, gradually lower the blade to about 2 to 2½ inches.

Keeping your grass a little shorter before winter prevents it from folding over under snow, which can create damp conditions ideal for mice and other small rodents to nest. It also helps improve air circulation around the crown of the grass, reducing the risk of disease and snow mold.

A Simple Fall Lawn Care Checklist

✅ Mulch light layers of dry leaves regularly, or rake and compost thicker layers
🚫 Bag and dispose of any leaves with black spots or fungal growth
✂️ Lower your mower height slightly for the final cuts of the season
🧹 Keep lawns clear of debris before the first snowfall
🌱 Compost healthy leaves for use in next year’s gardens and flower beds

Frequently Asked Questions About Fall Lawn Care in Ontario

Can I leave leaves on my lawn over winter?

Leaving a few mulched leaves is fine, but a thick layer can smother your grass and encourage mold growth. Always make sure leaves are dry and finely shredded if you plan to mulch them into your lawn.

When should I stop mowing my lawn in Ontario?

Most homeowners can stop mowing around the end of October, once grass growth slows due to cooler temperatures. If the weather stays mild, continue mowing as needed until the grass stops growing.

What’s the best height to cut grass before winter?

Aim for around 2 to 2½ inches for your final mow. Shorter grass helps prevent matting, reduces the risk of snow mold, and discourages mice and voles from nesting in your lawn.

Should I compost leaves with black spots or fungus?

No. Leaves with black spots are likely infected with fungus and can spread disease to your plants next year. These should be bagged and taken to a local composting facility or yard waste site instead.

Is it too late to clean up leaves after the first snow?

Not necessarily. If the snow melts and you can access your lawn again, removing leftover leaves can still make a difference. It improves airflow, prevents mold, and helps your lawn green up faster in spring.

Get Your Lawn Ready for Spring

By keeping up with leaf cleanup and adjusting your mowing height this fall, you’ll set your lawn up for a healthier, greener spring. If you’d like help with seasonal cleanup or lawn maintenance, the A Touch of Dutch Landscaping team in Stratford, Ontario, is here to help you make the most of your outdoor space—season after season.

Caring for Newly Planted Trees

by A Touch of Dutch Landscaping | Sep 12, 2024 | Landscape Design, Maintenance, Shrubs, Softscaping, Trees

Planting or transplanting a tree is a significant step towards enhancing your landscape, but the success of this endeavour largely depends on the care provided during the first few years. This comprehensive guide will help ensure your newly planted or transplanted tree thrives.

Watering Newly Planted Trees

Initial Watering: Immediately after planting or transplanting, water the tree thoroughly. This helps settle the soil and eliminate air pockets around the roots.
Establishing a Routine: For the first few weeks, water the tree every 2-3 days. Gradually reduce the frequency to once a week after the tree has started to establish itself (about 6-8 weeks).
Water Quantity: Ensure deep watering, which means the water should reach the tree’s root zone (about 12-18 inches deep). Depending on the size of the tree, 10-15 gallons of water per watering session may be needed.
Mulching: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch helps retain moisture and regulates soil temperature.

Fertilizing Newly Planted Trees

When to Fertilize: Avoid fertilizing immediately after planting. Wait until the tree shows signs of new growth, which indicates it has begun to establish its roots.
Type of Fertilizer: We prefer fertilizer spikes which are balanced and slow-release, and are inserted into the soil around the drip line, which eliminates risk of burning the grass surrounding the tree. Organic compost or well-decomposed manure can also be beneficial.
How to Apply: Stake about 4 fertilizer spikes, evenly spaced, in the soil under the tree canopy.

Protection from Wind

Staking: Young trees may need to be staked to protect them from strong winds, especially in exposed areas. Use flexible tree ties that allow some movement, promoting a stronger trunk.
Placement of Stakes: Smaller trees typically only require one stake. Place stake outside the root ball, angled outward, on the side of prevailing winds and tie the tree loosely. If staking a larger tree, add a second stake opposite the first one. Remove stakes after one growing season to prevent girdling and to encourage independent growth.

Protection from Standing Water

While improving drainage by amending the soil and/or raising the planting site can improve the immediate area, it will not help the tree in the long run. Once the tree is established and the roots grow beyond the amended area, they’ll be exposed to the poor draining characteristics of the overall site. It’s best to avoid areas with poor drainage, and opt instead for spots with more tree-friendly soil conditions.

Protection from Frost and Snow

Frost Protection: In areas prone to frost, new evergreens should be wrapped with burlap, but this is only necessary for their first winter. Young deciduous trees do not need to be wrapped unless they are not extremely hardy for your zone.
Mulching for Insulation: Mulch not only retains moisture but also insulates the roots from extreme cold. Apply mulch before the first hard freeze and replenish as needed throughout the winter.
Snow and Ice Removal: Gently brush off snow from the branches to prevent them from breaking. Avoid using salt-based deicers near trees, as salt can damage the roots and soil structure.

Monitoring and Maintenance

Regular Inspections: Check the tree regularly for signs of stress, such as wilting, discoloration, or pests. Address any issues promptly to prevent long-term damage.
Pruning: Prune any dead, damaged, or diseased branches to promote healthy growth. Avoid heavy pruning in the first year after planting to allow the tree to establish itself.
Pest and Disease Control: Monitor for pests and diseases, and treat as necessary. Organic and biological controls should be used according to the severity of the problem and the tree species. Chemical pest controls are not permitted for use in Ontario.

Caring for Newly Planted Trees Long Term

Ongoing Watering and Fertilization: Continue to water the tree during dry spells, even after it has become established. Fertilize annually, for the first five years. After that, roots are so deep that standard fertilization strategies will not impact the deep roots. If you do suspect that your tree requires fertilization, we recommend contacting a company that specializes in deep root fertilization.
Seasonal Adjustments: Adapt your care routine to seasonal changes. For example, reduce watering in the fall as the tree prepares for dormancy, and resume regular watering in the spring.

Proper care during the first few years of a tree’s life sets the foundation for a healthy, long-lasting addition to your landscape. By following these guidelines, you can ensure your tree grows strong and resilient, contributing to the beauty and health of your environment for years to come. If you’d prefer to have assistance with tree selection and planting, contact us.

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