Spring Landscaping Projects – A Comprehensive Guide

Spring Landscaping Projects – A Comprehensive Guide

By late winter, most of us are champing at the bit to say goodbye to snow and begin some spring landscaping projects. However, when you’re located in regions with colder climates, like Hardiness Zones 5 and 6, timing is key to ensure your landscaping projects are successful and won’t be ruined by lingering, sub-zero temperatures.

In these zones, getting a head start on your landscaping project can be a bit tricky. But the below guide can help you kick off your landscaping tasks at the right times (earlier than you might think) and make the most of the spring and summer months.

Understanding The Southwestern Ontario Hardiness Zones

Southwestern Ontario hardiness zones 5 and 6Before diving into specifics, it’s important to define our hardiness zones (5 & 6). Hardiness zones are determined by the average minimum temperatures that a region experiences during the winter.

  • Zone 5 typically includes areas with average low temperatures ranging from 29°C to -23°C.
  • Zone 6 has slightly milder winters, with average low temperatures ranging from -23°C to -18°C.

These zones are significant because they dictate what types of plants and trees will thrive (i.e. survive winter) in our area, and they also impact the timing of landscaping projects. In both zones 5 and 6, the winter frost can last into late April (or even May!), so it’s crucial to be mindful of this when planning.

The Ideal Time to Start Spring Landscaping Projects in Southwestern Ontario

Though the ground may still be thawing in early spring, there are several tasks you can begin before the frost has fully left the ground.

Early Spring (Late March to Mid April): Planning, Preparation, and Soil Work

Early Spring Planting soil testing landscaping projectsWhile it’s not yet time to plant anything delicate or frost-sensitive, early spring is the perfect time to begin planning your landscaping project and preparing your yard. Here are some activities you can start with:

  • Planning and Design: Take advantage of the cold weather to sketch your landscaping design. This is the time to think about your overall vision, the layout of flower beds, garden paths, patios, or water features. You can also research which plants are best suited for your zone. Drawing your plan on paper (or using a landscaping app) will help you visualize the changes and ensure your project flows smoothly once the weather warms up.
  • Clearing the Area: Once the snow has melted and the ground has thawed enough, it’s time to begin spring cleanup. This can involve removing dead plants, leaves, and debris from flower beds, lawn areas, and other sections of your landscape. It’s also an ideal time to prune any shrubs or trees before they start budding. Be sure to clean up garden beds, pathways, and any other areas that need tidying up.
  • Soil Testing and Preparation: Testing the pH and nutrient levels of your soil early in the season is an essential step in preparing for a successful landscaping project. You can get a soil test kit from your local garden center or university extension service. Based on the results, you can amend the soil with the necessary fertilizers, compost, or lime to improve soil health. Early spring gives you enough time to make adjustments before planting begins.
  • Hardscaping: If your landscaping project includes hardscaping features like building a patio, retaining walls, or installing pathways, you can begin these tasks even in early spring. While it might still be too early to lay sod or plant anything sensitive, hardscaping typically involves working with materials like stone, gravel, or concrete that can be installed even if the ground is still a little cold. Just ensure that all of the frost is out of the ground. If it’s not, your hardscaping elements will settle after the ground thaws and you’ll most likely need to relay the stone. You can also lay out the framework for fences or garden structures.

Late Spring (Late April to Mid May): Planting and Plant Care

mid to late spring planting hardy perennials landscaping projectsAs the soil warms up and the last frost date approaches (typically in late April for Zone 6 and mid May for Zone 5), you can start thinking about planting. However, it’s important to wait until the soil is no longer too cold for seeds or young plants to thrive.

  • Planting Hardy Perennials: In early spring, certain plants, particularly cold-tolerant perennials, can be planted in Zones 5 and 6. These include species like hostas, lavender, daylilies, and coneflowers. These hardy perennials can withstand some frost and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable and temperatures have warmed a bit.
  • Starting Annuals Indoors: Many gardeners in Zones 5-6 choose to start annuals indoors earlier in the year, generally around 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date. Flowers like marigolds, zinnias, and petunias, as well as vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and herbs, all thrive when started inside in early spring. By doing this, you’ll have strong, healthy plants ready to be hardened off and planted outdoors when the time is right.
  • Mulching and Weed Control: As the weather warms and plants begin to emerge from the soil, applying a layer of mulch around your garden beds can help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Keep an eye out for any invasive weeds that may start sprouting and remove them before they have a chance to spread.

Late Spring to Early Summer (Late May to June): Full Planting and Maintenance

late spring to early summer planting spring landscaping projects trees and shrubsOnce the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures are consistently above 50°F, you can move forward with your full landscaping project. This is when most of the planting will take place. This period offers a long window for planting flowers, shrubs, trees, and vegetables. Here’s what you can do:

  • Planting Warm-Weather Crops and Annuals: After the last frost date (typically mid-May for Zone 5 and late May to early June for Zone 6), you can begin planting annuals and vegetable garden crops that need warm soil to thrive.
  • Adding Trees and Shrubs: Late spring is an excellent time to plant trees and shrubs, as the weather is warming and the soil is beginning to support healthy root development. When selecting trees or shrubs, make sure to choose species that are hardy in your specific zone. This will ensure that they can withstand the climate and provide long-term beauty.
  • Ongoing Maintenance: As your plants start to grow, make sure to monitor their progress. Water regularly, especially during hot spells, and watch for any signs of pests or diseases. Keeping your yard free of debris, properly mulching garden beds, and maintaining your hardscaping features will ensure your landscaping project looks great throughout the season.

In Hardiness Zones 5 and 6, it’s crucial to know the optimal time for each phase of your landscaping project to get the best results. While you may have to wait for the last frost date and ensure the soil is warm enough, there are plenty of activities you can start in early spring, including planning, clearing, hardscaping, and soil preparation.

By taking advantage of the early part of the year for these preparatory tasks, you’ll be ready to plant and grow a beautiful landscape once the warmer weather arrives. Remember to tailor your landscaping plans to your specific zone’s growing season and weather patterns, and don’t forget the importance of patience—good things take time, and a little advance preparation will pay off in the end.

If you’re not a green thumb, or just want to ensure that everything is done right and at the right time, contact us and share your landscaping goals.

Should I Remove Snow from Trees and Shrubs?

Should I Remove Snow from Trees and Shrubs?

Winter can be tough on trees and shrubs, especially when heavy snow and ice accumulate. While snow can provide some insulation against freezing temperatures, too much weight can lead to broken branches, bent shrubs, and even long-term damage to your landscape. Knowing when to remove snow from trees and shrubs, how to protect your plants, and how to assess winter damage can help you keep your trees and shrubs healthy all season long.

Proactive Ways to Protect Trees and Shrubs from Winter Damage

heavy snow on evergreens protect trees from snow damageChoose the Right Plants

Planting trees and shrubs suited to your climate is the first step to reducing winter damage. Native species or those hardy to your zone are better equipped to handle the weight of snow and ice.

Use Burlap or Protective Wraps

For smaller trees and delicate shrubs, wrapping them in burlap or protective fabric can shield branches from snow, wind, and ice buildup. This is especially useful for evergreens, which hold onto snow more than deciduous trees.

Install Supports for Vulnerable Branches

Multi-stemmed shrubs, like arborvitae or junipers, often splay open under heavy snow. Use stakes or twine to gently tie stems together before the first snowstorm to help them withstand the extra weight.

Avoid Salt Damage

Salt used to melt ice on driveways and sidewalks can damage nearby trees and shrubs. Use sand or calcium chloride instead, and keep de-icing chemicals away from your landscape.

Mulch Around the Base

Apply a layer of mulch (about 2-4 inches thick) around the base of trees and shrubs to help insulate roots and retain moisture during winter freezes and thaws.

When (and How) to Remove Snow or Ice

heavy snow on evergreens protect shrubs from snow damageNot all snow or ice needs to be removed. In some cases, it’s better to leave it alone to avoid causing more harm than good.

When to Remove Snow

  • If branches are bending dangerously under the weight of snow, it’s time to remove snow from trees and shrubs.
  • When snow accumulation is particularly heavy and is causing obvious strain on shrubs or trees.
  • For smaller shrubs that may be completely buried under a heavy snowfall.

How to Safely Remove Snow:

  • Use a broom or soft brush to GENTLY sweep snow off branches. Start from the bottom and work your way up to avoid adding extra weight to lower limbs.
  • Avoid using shovels or sharp tools that can damage bark and branches.
  • Never shake snow-covered branches, as this can cause them to snap, especially when frozen.

When NOT to Remove Snow

  • If the snow is light and fluffy, it generally won’t cause harm and can be left alone.
  • If branches are encased in ice, do not attempt to break or remove it. The ice protects the tree temporarily, and attempting to remove it could result in snapped branches or stripped bark.

How to Check for Damage After a Storm

Once the snow and ice have melted or settled, inspect your trees and shrubs for signs of damage: 

Look for Broken Branches

Check for cracked, split, or broken limbs that may need pruning.

remove snow from trees and shrubs landscaping guide how-to protect trees from damageExamine the Shape of Shrubs

Some shrubs may remain misshapen after being weighed down by snow. Give them time to bounce back before making adjustments.

Inspect Trunk and Bark Damage

Deep cracks or peeling bark may signal significant stress.

Pruning Tip

Remove broken or damaged branches promptly with clean, sharp pruning tools. Make cuts just outside the branch collar to help the plant heal properly.

When It Might Be Necessary to Replace a Tree or Shrub

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a tree or shrub may suffer irreparable damage. Here are signs it may be time to replace it:

Severe Structural Damage

If more than 50% of a tree’s branches are broken or the trunk is split, the tree may not recover.

Permanent Leaning

If a tree or shrub has been pushed significantly out of position, its root system may be compromised.

Continued Poor Health

If a tree or shrub fails to leaf out in spring or shows signs of decline like dieback or stunted growth, it may not recover.

When replacing a damaged tree or shrub, consider selecting a hardier variety better suited to your winter conditions.

Protecting trees and shrubs during winter starts with preparation, but knowing when and how to remove snow can make all the difference. By being proactive and carefully assessing any damage, you can help your landscape survive the season and thrive come spring. If you’re ever unsure whether a tree or shrub is salvageable, consider consulting an arborist or landscaping professional for advice.

With the right care, your winter landscape can remain healthy, beautiful, and resilient year after year!

Is It Too Late To Plant Trees and Perennials in Ontario?

Is It Too Late To Plant Trees and Perennials in Ontario?

As the days grow shorter and the air colder, you may be wondering Is it too late to plant trees and perennials in Ontario? The good news is that, in most cases, the answer is a reassuring no (with some caveats and exceptions). Fall is actually one of the best times to get plants into the ground, as long as you’re mindful of the timing and preparation. Let’s dig into the details.

Why Fall Planting Works

Fall planting in Ontario has several benefits:

Cooler Temperatures

Plants experience less stress from heat, making it easier for them to establish roots.

Moisture Levels

Autumn rains are ideal for consistent soil moisture, giving roots the hydration they need.

Extended Root Development

Trees and perennials focus their energy on root growth instead of foliage during cooler months, helping them settle in before winter.

How Late Is Too Late?

Timing is everything. In Ontario, the general rule is to plant trees and perennials at least a few weeks before winter sets in and the ground stays frozen. Just be sure to water the trees well. This gives roots enough time to get established.

For Trees

Aim for mid-September to late October. Evergreens are best planted earlier in the season, as they need more time to anchor their roots before winter (water well and wrap evergreens with burlap to prevent drying out of the needles).

For Perennials

planting spring bulbs perennials in the fallYou can plant most varieties into early November if the weather cooperates and the soil remains workable. Small perennials may get lifted in the winter with frost. So, make sure you check the plants in early Spring and replant if needed.

Keep an eye on local frost dates and avoid planting when the ground is too hard or excessively wet.

Choosing the Right Plants

Certain trees and perennials are better suited for fall planting:

Trees

Maples, oaks, and elms are hardy choices. But really, any tree that’s hardy in zone four or lower can be planted right up until heavy frost. See the Canadian hardiness zone map.

Perennials

Hostas, daylilies, and peonies establish well in the fall. Native plants are also a great option for added resilience.

Pro Tips for Success

Prep the Soil

Remove weeds, loosen the soil, and add compost or mulch to enrich it.

Water Thoroughly

Is It Too Late to Plant Trees and Perennials in Ontario? Water and MulchEven though the air is cooler, trees and perennials still need regular watering after planting.

Protect Your Investment

Add a layer of mulch to insulate roots and consider using tree guards or burlap to protect young trees from frost and wildlife.

What About Spring Planting?

If you’ve missed the window for fall planting, don’t worry. Spring is another excellent time to plant. However, fall offers a head start, especially for trees and perennials that can handle Ontario’s winter conditions.

It’s not too late to plant trees and perennials in Ontario—but act quickly! With the right care and timing, your new additions will have a strong foundation to thrive next year. So grab your shovel, bundle up, and get planting before winter truly settles in! If you’d rather save planting for the spring and want some expert assistance, contact us.

Caring for Newly Planted Trees

Caring for Newly Planted Trees

Planting or transplanting a tree is a significant step towards enhancing your landscape, but the success of this endeavour largely depends on the care provided during the first few years. This comprehensive guide will help ensure your newly planted or transplanted tree thrives.

Watering Newly Planted Trees

  • Watering Newly Planted TreesInitial Watering: Immediately after planting or transplanting, water the tree thoroughly. This helps settle the soil and eliminate air pockets around the roots.
  • Establishing a Routine: For the first few weeks, water the tree every 2-3 days. Gradually reduce the frequency to once a week after the tree has started to establish itself (about 6-8 weeks).
  • Water Quantity: Ensure deep watering, which means the water should reach the tree’s root zone (about 12-18 inches deep). Depending on the size of the tree, 10-15 gallons of water per watering session may be needed.
  • Mulching: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch helps retain moisture and regulates soil temperature.

Fertilizing Newly Planted Trees

  • Protecting Newly Planted Trees from WindWhen to Fertilize: Avoid fertilizing immediately after planting. Wait until the tree shows signs of new growth, which indicates it has begun to establish its roots.
  • Type of Fertilizer: We prefer fertilizer spikes which are balanced and slow-release, and are inserted into the soil around the drip line, which eliminates risk of burning the grass surrounding the tree. Organic compost or well-decomposed manure can also be beneficial.
  • How to Apply: Stake about 4 fertilizer spikes, evenly spaced, in the soil under the tree canopy.

Protection from Wind

  • Staking Newly Planted Trees to protect from windStaking: Young trees may need to be staked to protect them from strong winds, especially in exposed areas. Use flexible tree ties that allow some movement, promoting a stronger trunk.
  • Placement of Stakes: Smaller trees typically only require one stake. Place stake outside the root ball, angled outward, on the side of prevailing winds and tie the tree loosely. If staking a larger tree, add a second stake opposite the first one. Remove stakes after one growing season to prevent girdling and to encourage independent growth.

Protection from Standing Water

While improving drainage by amending the soil and/or raising the planting site can improve the immediate area, it will not help the tree in the long run. Once the tree is established and the roots grow beyond the amended area, they’ll be exposed to the poor draining characteristics of the overall site. It’s best to avoid areas with poor drainage, and opt instead for spots with more tree-friendly soil conditions.

Protection from Frost and Snow

  • Protecting Newly Planted Trees from Frost and SnowFrost Protection: In areas prone to frost, new evergreens should be wrapped with burlap, but this is only necessary for their first winter. Young deciduous trees do not need to be wrapped unless they are not extremely hardy for your zone.
  • Mulching for Insulation: Mulch not only retains moisture but also insulates the roots from extreme cold. Apply mulch before the first hard freeze and replenish as needed throughout the winter.
  • Snow and Ice Removal: Gently brush off snow from the branches to prevent them from breaking. Avoid using salt-based deicers near trees, as salt can damage the roots and soil structure.

Monitoring and Maintenance

  • Regular Inspections: Check the tree regularly for signs of stress, such as wilting, discoloration, or pests. Address any issues promptly to prevent long-term damage.
  • Pruning: Prune any dead, damaged, or diseased branches to promote healthy growth. Avoid heavy pruning in the first year after planting to allow the tree to establish itself.
  • Pest and Disease Control: Monitor for pests and diseases, and treat as necessary. Organic and biological controls should be used according to the severity of the problem and the tree species. Chemical pest controls are not permitted for use in Ontario.

Caring for Newly Planted Trees Long Term

  • Ongoing Watering and Fertilization: Continue to water the tree during dry spells, even after it has become established. Fertilize annually, for the first five years. After that, roots are so deep that standard fertilization strategies will not impact the deep roots. If you do suspect that your tree requires fertilization, we recommend contacting a company that specializes in deep root fertilization.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Adapt your care routine to seasonal changes. For example, reduce watering in the fall as the tree prepares for dormancy, and resume regular watering in the spring.

Proper care during the first few years of a tree’s life sets the foundation for a healthy, long-lasting addition to your landscape. By following these guidelines, you can ensure your tree grows strong and resilient, contributing to the beauty and health of your environment for years to come. If you’d prefer to have assistance with tree selection and planting, contact us.

Common Lawn and Garden Pests

Common Lawn and Garden Pests

Spring has arrived and green is overtaking white. However, the growing season is accompanied by pests who like to feast on our landscapes. Below, we’ll shed light on some of the most common lawn and garden pests in Southwestern Ontario – their origins, identification, prevention, and management strategies.

Japanese Beetles (Popillia japonica)

Japanese Beetles are a Common Lawn and Garden PestJapanese beetles were introduced from Japan in the early 20th century and have since made themselves at home in Southwestern Ontario. These beetles have a metallic green color with copper-colored wings and are often found munching on the leaves of roses, grapes, and fruit trees.

Control Methods

  • Handpick the beetles
  • Use row covers
  • Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil
  • Introduce beneficial nematodes to target the larvae

Dealing with Damage

Prune damaged foliage and promote plant health through proper care.

Aphids (Aphidoidea)

Aphids on a rose stemAphids are native to North America and thrive in our temperate climate, reproducing rapidly and infesting a wide range of plants. This makes Aphids one of the most common among the common lawn and garden pests in our region. Look for clusters of small, green, pear-shaped insects on plant stems and new growth of various garden plants, including roses, vegetables, and fruit trees.

Control Methods

  • Encourage natural predators such as ladybugs and lacewings
  • Use insecticidal soap or neem oil, and blast aphids off plants with a strong stream of water.

Dealing with Damage

Prune heavily infested areas and monitor plant recovery.

Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis)

Emerald Ash BorerNative to Asia, emerald ash borers arrived in North America in the early 2000s and have devastated ash tree populations. Look for D-shaped exit holes in ash tree bark, canopy dieback, and S-shaped larval galleries under the bark.

Control Methods

  • Implement preventive treatments such as trunk injections with systemic insecticides
  • Consider replacing susceptible ash trees with resistant species.

Dealing with Damage

Prune dead branches and monitor remaining ash trees for signs of infestation.

Spider Mites (Tetranychidae)

Tiny Spider Mites on Stem - Common PestSpider mites are native to North America and thrive in warm, dry conditions, rapidly infesting plants. Look for fine webbing on the undersides of leaves and stippling or discoloration on foliage of garden plants, including tomatoes, beans, and ornamentals.

Control Methods

  • Increase humidity around plants
  • Introduce predatory mites or insects
  • Apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap

Dealing with Damage

Trim away heavily infested foliage and monitor plant recovery.

White Grubs (Scarabaeidae larvae)

White Grubs feed on grass roots and destroy grassThese soil-dwelling larvae are the immature stage of beetles like Japanese beetles, and they primarily feed on grass roots. Look for patches of dead or dying grass, which may indicate white grub infestation.

Control Methods

  • Use beneficial nematodes or milky spore disease to target grubs in the soil

Dealing with Damage

Re-seed affected areas and maintain proper lawn care practices.

Cutworms (Noctuidae larvae)

Cutworm is a common garden pestCutworms are native to North America and are nocturnal pests that feed on young seedlings at or below ground level. Look for seedlings that have been cut off at the base.

Control Methods

  • Use collar barriers around seedlings
  • Handpick cutworks from plants
  • Apply biological controls

Dealing with Damage

Replant damaged seedlings and protect them from future attacks.

Slugs and Snails (Gastropoda)

Common Lawn and Garden Pests - Slugs and SnailsSlugs and snails are native to the region and are nocturnal pests that feed on plant foliage and tender shoots of a range of garden plants. Follow slime trails and look for irregular holes in leaves.

Control Methods

  • Set up beer traps
  • Apply diatomaceous earth
  • Handpick them off of plants
  • Introduce natural predators like toads and birds

Dealing with Damage

Trim away damaged foliage and keep garden areas clean and tidy.

Cabbage Worms (Pieris rapae)

Cabbage worm feeds on cabbage leafCabbage worms are native to North America and are the larval stage of small white butterflies. As their name implies, they feed on brassica crops. Look for green caterpillars on cabbage family plants (cabbage, broccoli, kale), causing chewing damage to leaves.

Control Methods

  • Handpick caterpillars
  • Use floating row covers
  • Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
  • Encourage natural predators

Dealing with Damage

Trim away damaged leaves and protect plants from future infestations.

Thrips (Thysanoptera)

Common pest - small thrip on leafThrips are native insects that feed on the sap of garden plants, including roses, onions, and peppers. They can transmit diseases to a wide range of plants. Look for tiny, slender insects and silvery patches on leaves.

Control Methods

  • Use insecticidal soap or neem oil
  • Introduce predatory insects

Dealing with Damage

Trim away damaged foliage and monitor plant health.

Scale Insects (Coccoidea)

Scale Insects on stem - common pestScale insects are native to North America and can weaken or kill plants by feeding on sap and excreting honeydew of ornamental and fruit-bearing trees. Look for small, immobile insects on stems and leaves, often surrounded by a protective shell.

Control Methods

  • Use horticultural oil or insecticidal soap
  • Introduce natural enemies like ladybugs

Dealing with Damage

Prune away heavily infested branches and monitor plant recovery.

This guide will help prepare you to identify and combat common lawn and garden pests in Southwestern Ontario. Remember to stay vigilant, implement preventive measures, and maintain overall plant health to keep those pesky critters at bay.

Pest control product mentioned above – insecticidal soap, diatomaceous earth, neem oil, nematodes, collar barriers, floating row covers – are available at local garden centres. When purchasing, talk to staff about proper application/use for optimal effectiveness.