Fall Cleanup – Wrapping Trees

Fall Cleanup – Wrapping Trees

Getting Your Trees & Shrubs Ready for Winter

Newly planted evergreens should be wrapped with burlap during their first winter to protect them from Ontario’s cold, drying winds. Established plants generally don’t need annual wrapping unless they’re in an exposed location or subject to heavy snow load. Leave burlap in place until at least mid-April. Removing it too early during a mild stretch is one of the most common mistakes homeowners make.

If you’ve ever watched a once-healthy evergreen turn brown over winter, drying winds are usually to blame. Cold air moving across exposed needles pulls out moisture that the plant can’t replace when the ground is frozen, and the result in spring is the kind of browning that doesn’t recover. The good news is that a bit of burlap and some twine, properly applied before the cold sets in, prevents most of it.

Here’s exactly how we approach wrapping and tying trees and shrubs for winter at A Touch of Dutch Landscaping, after years of preparing gardens across Stratford, St. Marys, and Perth County for the season ahead.

Does every evergreen need to be wrapped?

Not necessarily, and wrapping unnecessarily adds work without benefit. As a general rule, we wrap evergreens during their first winter after planting, and generally don’t wrap them after that.

The reason the first year matters so much is that many of the evergreens sold at Ontario garden centres are grown on the west coast of Canada or the United States, where winters are considerably milder. When those plants arrive here, they haven’t yet adjusted to the harsher conditions of Southwestern Ontario, particularly the cold, drying east and west winds that we get through January and February. A young spruce or cedar planted in the open is especially vulnerable during that first winter before it’s had a chance to settle in and harden off to local conditions.

After the first growing season, healthy established evergreens typically handle Ontario winters without help. The exception is plants in particularly exposed or windy locations, or larger cedars and yews that grow under a roofline where snow load can become a problem.

What you’ll need

The materials are simple and inexpensive:

  • Heavy burlap – heavier weight holds up better through wind and wet than lightweight fabric. Available at most garden centres, hardware stores, and co-op stores in the area.
  • Garden twine or string – for tying burlap around individual plants and for tying branches on larger shrubs.
  • Wooden stakes – needed if you’re protecting a cedar hedge or a long row of shrubs.
  • Staple gun – useful for attaching burlap to stakes on a hedge.

How to wrap small evergreens

For a small plant – a young spruce, a newly planted cedar, or a compact boxwood – the process is straightforward. Cut a piece of burlap large enough to drape over the entire plant with some overlap at the base. Hang it over the top so all sides are covered, then tie it securely at the bottom with twine. That’s really all there is to it. The goal is to block the wind from reaching the foliage on all sides. The plant doesn’t need to be sealed completely, just shielded.

How to wrap taller evergreens

Once plants get to five, six, or seven feet tall, a single drape of burlap may not be practical. You have two good options:

Wrap horizontally. Starting from the bottom, wrap the burlap around the plant in overlapping horizontal layers, working your way up. Tie it off as you go to hold it in place.

Drape and tie multiple pieces. For wider plants, drape two or more pieces of burlap over the top from different angles, then tie them together where they overlap.

If the plant already has a support stake in the ground – which many newly planted trees do – use it to your advantage. You can anchor and tie the burlap to the stake, which makes the whole process faster and more secure.

Whichever method you use, the goal is the same: make sure all sides of the plant are protected from wind and blowing snow, with no large gaps where cold air can funnel in.

How to protect a cedar hedge

Wrapping each plant individually in a long cedar hedge of ten, fifteen, or twenty plants is impractical. Instead, we build a simple burlap screen along the outside of the hedge.

Drive wooden stakes into the ground about four feet apart along the length of the hedge. Attach burlap to the stakes (a staple gun makes this fast) and run it along the full length. You don’t need to enclose the top; as long as the burlap reaches at least as high as the cedars, it will block the wind adequately. Keep stakes no more than four feet apart. Further than that and the burlap will sag or catch too much wind and pull free.

Once it’s up, leave it for the season. It requires no maintenance through the winter.

Tying larger cedars and yews to prevent snow damage

For larger, established cedars and yews, particularly ones growing close to a building where they’re likely to catch snow sliding off the roofline, burlap wrapping isn’t always the right solution. Instead, we tie the branches together with twine to keep heavy snow from splitting the plant open or bending branches permanently out of shape.

Start at the base of the plant, tie the twine onto a lower branch, and then spiral it upward around the plant, gently gathering the branches as you go, until you reach near the top. Keep it snug enough to hold the shape, but not so tight that you’re compressing the branches hard against each other. You want some airflow to continue moving through the plant. This technique works particularly well for columnar cedars, arborvitae, and upright yews.

When to take the burlap off in spring

This is where a lot of homeowners undo all their fall work, taking the burlap off too early.

It’s tempting on a warm day in late February or early March, when it genuinely feels like spring has arrived. But in Ontario, cold winds can return well into the end of March, and those winds are just as capable of browning out needles as anything that came earlier in winter. If the burlap comes off too soon, all the protection it provided becomes irrelevant.

Our rule: leave burlap on until at least mid-April. The twine used to tie branches can generally come off a bit earlier – significant snowfall is unlikely after the first of April – but the burlap wrapping on the foliage itself should stay in place until the worst of the wind risk has genuinely passed.

That said, don’t leave it on too long either. Once plants start pushing new growth in spring, having burlap restricting that growth does more harm than good. Mid-April is usually the right window – late enough to be safe, early enough to let the plant breathe and grow.

Step-by-step summary

  • Wrap newly planted evergreens in their first winter. Established plants generally don’t need it
  • Use heavy burlap for better durability through wind and wet weather
  • Small plants: drape and tie at the base
  • Taller plants: wrap horizontally in layers, or drape multiple pieces and tie together
  • Cedar hedges: stake-and-burlap screen along the outside, stakes four feet apart
  • Large cedars and yews near rooflines: tie branches with twine from bottom to top
  • Leave burlap in place until mid-April, but remove twine after April 1
  • Remove all protection before active spring growth begins

Frequently asked questions

Do evergreens need to be wrapped every winter in Ontario?

No. Established evergreens generally do not need to be wrapped every winter. Wrapping is most important during the first year after planting, when the plant is still acclimatizing to local wind exposure and climate conditions. After the first growing season, healthy established evergreens typically don’t require burlap protection unless they are in a particularly exposed location.

Why do newly planted evergreens need winter wrapping?

Many evergreens sold in Ontario are grown on the west coast of Canada or the United States, where winters are significantly milder. When transplanted to Southwestern Ontario, they haven’t yet adjusted to local winter conditions, particularly the cold, drying winds that can pull moisture from the needles and cause browning. Wrapping during the first winter protects the plant while it adjusts to its new environment.

How do you wrap a cedar hedge for winter in Ontario?

For a cedar hedge, drive wooden stakes into the ground approximately four feet apart along the outside of the hedge. Attach burlap to the stakes along the full length and staple it in place. The top doesn’t need to be enclosed. Just make sure the burlap reaches at least as high as the cedars. Keep stakes no more than four feet apart to prevent the burlap from sagging or blowing loose.

When should you remove burlap from trees and shrubs in spring?

Leave burlap on until at least mid-April in Ontario. Cold winds can return through late March and cause the same needle browning the burlap was protecting against. Twine used for tying branches can generally come off after April 1. Remove all protection before plants begin actively growing to avoid restricting new growth.

What kind of burlap should I use to wrap trees for winter?

Use a heavier-weight burlap. It holds up better through wind and wet weather than lightweight fabric. Heavy burlap is available at most garden centres, co-op stores, and hardware stores in Ontario.

Should you wrap boxwoods and yews for winter in Ontario?

Yes, boxwoods and yews benefit from winter protection, particularly in their first few years or if planted in exposed locations. Drape burlap over the plant and tie it at the base. This protects foliage from drying winter winds without completely restricting airflow.

Questions about getting your garden ready for winter?
A Touch of Dutch Landscaping provides fall garden cleanup, winterizing, and plant protection services in Stratford, St. Marys, Mitchell, Shakespeare, and across Perth County.
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A Touch of Dutch Landscaping · Stratford, Ontario
Serving Stratford, St. Marys, Mitchell, Shakespeare, and Perth County, Ontario.

Fall Garden Cleanup

Fall Garden Cleanup

Getting Your Landscape Ready for Winter

As the air turns crisp and we head into late October, it’s time to think about “tucking in” your garden for the season. While it might feel like there is plenty of time left, starting your fall maintenance now ensures a healthy, vibrant landscape when spring returns.

In the video below, Johan shares fundamental tips for preapring your gardens for winter and setting them up for a great spring.

At A Touch of Dutch Landscaping, we believe fall cleanup doesn’t have to be a daunting task. Here is our professional guide to getting your gardens winter-ready.

1. Cutting Back Perennials

The first step in any fall cleanup is addressing your perennials. We typically begin by cutting down plants like Lilies and Hostas.

Pro Tip: Don’t let that plant material go to waste! We add all our clippings to a compost pile. In two years, that “waste” becomes “black gold”—nutrient-rich compost that can be reused to feed your gardens.

2. Managing Leaves and Ground Covers

There is often a debate about whether to leave fallen leaves in the garden. While some leaf cover is natural, a layer that is too thick or too wet can create a breeding ground for mice and other rodents.

We generally prefer to rake the leaves out of the garden beds—including areas with ground covers like Periwinkle—using a standard leaf rake. These leaves also head to the compost pile to be recycled for next year.

3. The Ornamental Grass Dilemma

Ornamental grasses provide beautiful texture and seed heads for birds during the early fall. However, once the heavy snow hits, these grasses often collapse, making spring cleanup much more difficult.

Our Recommendation: Enjoy them as long as you can, but we suggest cutting them down by mid-November. This keeps the garden looking tidy and prevents a matted mess come springtime.

4. The Benefits of Fall Mulching

Most homeowners find they have a bit more time in the fall than during the hectic spring rush. This makes autumn the perfect time for mulching.

Application: Once your perennials are cut back, apply 3 to 4 inches of fresh mulch.

Don’t Worry: You can go right over the top of your cut-back perennials. They are hardy enough to push through the mulch in the spring.

Why Prep Now?

Taking these steps in October and November doesn’t just make your property look beautiful throughout the winter; it sets you up for success. When the snow melts, your gardens will be clean, protected, and ready to grow.

Need a hand getting your property ready for the winter? Contact A Touch of Dutch Landscaping today to schedule your professional fall maintenance!

Fall Lawn Cleanup

Fall Lawn Cleanup

Fall Lawn Care Tips: Leaf Cleanup and Proper Mowing Height

As autumn settles in and the leaves begin to fall, your lawn needs a little extra attention to stay healthy through winter and into next spring. While it can be tempting to let fallen leaves pile up or skip the last mow of the season, proper fall lawn care plays a big role in keeping your grass lush and vibrant year after year.

Check out this video where Johan covers the key elements of cleaning up your gardens in the fall and preparing them for the winter.

Here’s what to keep in mind when managing leaves and mowing your lawn this fall.

Should You Mulch or Rake Leaves?

When leaves are dry and crisp—as they often are in early to mid-October—mulching can be an excellent option. Running a mulching mower over a light layer of leaves helps return valuable organic matter to the soil. Just be sure to mulch regularly rather than waiting until all the leaves have fallen. Trying to mulch a thick, wet layer of leaves later in the season can clog your mower and smother your grass.

If the leaves become soggy after rain or you’ve fallen behind on cleanup, it’s best to rake or use a bagging mower to remove them. Collected leaves can be added to your compost pile and, once broken down, used to enrich your flower beds the following year. This simple cycle helps you create natural fertilizer while keeping your property looking tidy.

When and Why Leaf Cleanup Matters

Beyond appearances, removing leaves is important for your lawn’s health. Wet, matted leaves can block sunlight and airflow, encouraging mold and fungus to develop. In particular, if you notice black spots on your leaves—a common sign of fungal infection—it’s best not to compost them. These infected leaves can reintroduce disease to your trees and shrubs next year. Instead, bag them and take them to your local yard waste depot or landfill.

Even if you miss your window before the first snowfall, it’s still worth cleaning up leaves once the snow melts again. A quick mid-winter cleanup helps prevent mold and keeps your grass from suffocating under layers of decaying leaves.

How Short to Cut Your Lawn in the Fall

Most lawns in Ontario can be cut until late October, depending on weather conditions. Throughout the growing season, aim to maintain a mowing height of about 3 to 3½ inches. For the final one or two cuts of the year, gradually lower the blade to about 2 to 2½ inches.

Keeping your grass a little shorter before winter prevents it from folding over under snow, which can create damp conditions ideal for mice and other small rodents to nest. It also helps improve air circulation around the crown of the grass, reducing the risk of disease and snow mold.

A Simple Fall Lawn Care Checklist

  • ✅ Mulch light layers of dry leaves regularly, or rake and compost thicker layers
  • 🚫 Bag and dispose of any leaves with black spots or fungal growth
  • ✂️ Lower your mower height slightly for the final cuts of the season
  • 🧹 Keep lawns clear of debris before the first snowfall
  • 🌱 Compost healthy leaves for use in next year’s gardens and flower beds

Frequently Asked Questions About Fall Lawn Care in Ontario

Can I leave leaves on my lawn over winter?

Leaving a few mulched leaves is fine, but a thick layer can smother your grass and encourage mold growth. Always make sure leaves are dry and finely shredded if you plan to mulch them into your lawn.

When should I stop mowing my lawn in Ontario?

Most homeowners can stop mowing around the end of October, once grass growth slows due to cooler temperatures. If the weather stays mild, continue mowing as needed until the grass stops growing.

What’s the best height to cut grass before winter?

Aim for around 2 to 2½ inches for your final mow. Shorter grass helps prevent matting, reduces the risk of snow mold, and discourages mice and voles from nesting in your lawn.

Should I compost leaves with black spots or fungus?

No. Leaves with black spots are likely infected with fungus and can spread disease to your plants next year. These should be bagged and taken to a local composting facility or yard waste site instead.

Is it too late to clean up leaves after the first snow?

Not necessarily. If the snow melts and you can access your lawn again, removing leftover leaves can still make a difference. It improves airflow, prevents mold, and helps your lawn green up faster in spring.

Get Your Lawn Ready for Spring

By keeping up with leaf cleanup and adjusting your mowing height this fall, you’ll set your lawn up for a healthier, greener spring. If you’d like help with seasonal cleanup or lawn maintenance, the A Touch of Dutch Landscaping team in Stratford, Ontario, is here to help you make the most of your outdoor space—season after season.